Klinkenberg, the chief operating officer of Harrington’s of Vermont. Hams with water added can turn spongy, and don’t do well on a spiralizing machine, said R.B. Something labeled “ham and water product” can have any amount of water. Most supermarket hams are labeled “ham with water added,” which means that the ham has up to 10 percent extra water. That means 7 to 9 percent in additional water has been added. Hams marked “with natural juices” are a good bet, too. Top of the line are products simply labeled “ham,” and must be at least 20.5 percent protein by weight. It’s important to read labels, because brine (or water) is often injected into the ham and can impact the taste and texture. City hams can take on water weight from the brine, and some processors inject extra brine or even water into their hams to improve profit margins. If the way a pig was raised can affect its quality, so can the way it was processed. A whole or half Honey Baked Ham sells for around $7.40 per pound.) (For comparison, Costco’s Kirkland brand hickory-smoked, spiral-cut ham was on sale last week for $1.99 per pound. The animals are raised on pasture accredited by the Savory Institute, which is dedicated to regenerating grasslands. This year for the first time, White Oak Pastures in southern Georgia is selling spiral-cut hams from 450 of its Berkshire hogs. And some producers of higher-quality, boutique hams realize that there is no shame in sending them out already sliced. Still, as cooks have come to care more about the provenance of their pork, they have been willing to spend more on spiral-cut hams. Waetke said, because America has been sending a lot of hams to Mexico and Canada, so there are fewer for the domestic market. But they were actually buying about 2 percent less ham. Shoppers spent about 2 percent more on spiral hams in 2018 than they did in 2017. Spiral-cut hams comprise about 34 percent of all the ham sold in the United States, said Kevin Waetke, a vice president of the National Pork Board. Other smokehouses have lent a hand, and his bone-in, spiral-cut hams are selling almost as well as the country hams the family is known for. “There’s a pig on Monday, and it’s in the store on Friday,” said Sam Edwards III, who is rebuilding his family’s Edwards Virginia Smokehouse, which burned to the ground in 2016.
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